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Vale do São Francisco

April 19, 2021
Vale do Sao Francisco

On one side you will find Petrolina, Pernambuco, on the other side, Juazeiro, Bahia. Two cities and two states united by the São Francisco River, also known as "Velho Chico". This river is found in the São Francisco Valley, which lies within the states of Bahia, Pernambuco, Minas Gerais, Sergipe, and Alagoas. With year-round sunshine and beautiful blue skies, this region is a great destination in the northeast of Brazil if you are looking to explore beyond the coast.

Together, Petrolina and Juazeiro produce a wide variety of fruits that are exported all over the world. The region is also known for producing table grapes and wine. Taking winery tours, practicing water sports on the Velho Chico, sampling delicious fish dishes, and relaxing on the beaches are all activities that can be enjoyed in this region during a Brazil trip. Check out some exciting tips for things to do in the Vale do São Francisco.

The Islands of Velho Chico

Located between Petrolina and Juazeiro are the islands of Velho Chico. Among the most famous is Ilha do Fogo. Formed by a single rock, the land rises towards the west, forming a hill about 65 feet (20 meters) high. On top of the hill there is a cross, which for a long time served as a guide for sailors. The island is popular among those who like to swim as it has two beaches of fine sand similar to the beaches on the coast. Due to their proximity to the city centers of Petrolina and Juazeiro, these beaches are very popular, especially on weekends. Access to the island is via the Presidente Dutra bridge, which crosses the São Francisco River. Alternatively, the island can be reached by kayak from Juazeiro.
Rodeadouro Island is also a popular beach resort. On its shores, there are several bars where you can enjoy street-food-style snacks and fish baked in banana leaves. A well-known delicacy of the region is the "maracari", a kind of cream with pieces of cari fish that is served in the rind of a passion fruit. During the weekends, you can enjoy live music on the island during the day. You can get to the island in small boats available from the two municipalities.
Only 9 miles (15 kilometers) from the center of Petrolina is the island of Massangano, the largest island in the region measuring about 1.8 miles (3 kilometers) long. There are several hikes available on the island. One of them is the hike to Prainha beach, where you can enjoy a pleasant swim thanks to the shallow waters. On the other side of the island, the trails lead through orchards of passion fruit, mango, and other fruits. An amazing sight to see is the sunset over the riverbed of Velho Chico.
Cultural traditions are an essential part of island life on Massangano. Existing for more than 100 years, Samba de Véio is typical on the island. It is a very special combination of dance and music that is very rhythmic and lively. The tradition of Samba de Véio is passed down from generation to generation, and several albums of the music have already been recorded.

The wine miracle of the Vale do São Francisco

The region belongs to the Caatinga, a biome exclusive to Brazil that occupies around 70 percent of the Northeast region of the country. The name "Caatinga" is Tupi-Guarani and means "white forest". This region is affected by extreme droughts and dry periods characteristic of the arid climate. The biome has three layers of vegetation: Trees (26-39 feet or 8-12 meters tall), shrubs (6.5-16 feet or 2-5 meters tall), and herbaceous plants (under 6.5 feet or 2 meters tall). The vegetation has adapted to the dry climate to protect itself. For example, leaves are thin or absent, some plants such as cacti store water, while others are characterized by having their roots almost at the surface level of the soil to absorb as much of the rainfall as possible. Some of the most common species in the region are Amburana, Aroeira, Umbu, Baraúna, Maniçoba, Macambira, Mandacaru, and Juazeiro.

How can dry, clay-like, and rocky soil, in a flat region with high temperatures where it seldom rains, represent a huge potential for wine production? The magic lies in a drip irrigation system, a technology that originated in Israel and California. Water harvesting in the São Francisco River Valley comes from Lake Sobradinho, one of the largest artificial lakes in the world. The lake was built in the 1970s by damming the waters of the Velho Chico. In most countries throughout the world, the cycle of a vine lasts one year, however in the São Francisco Valley it lasts only four months, resulting in up to two and a half harvests per year. Thus, on the same day and only a few feet away, it is possible to see the vineyards from any phase of the harvest.

A visit to a winery followed by a wine tasting is the perfect way to get to know the tropical wines of the region, and those produced in the Vale do São Francisco have already received many awards. At the Great Wines of Brazil 2020 tasting, the region was awarded three champions, two double golds, and eight gold medals. Among the most famous varieties are the red wines Rio Sol Assinatura and Miolo Testardi Syrah.

A good way to get to know the region and its wines is to take a trip on the "Vapor do Vinho", a steamer named in reference to the old steamers that contributed to the development of the Brazilian Northeast and especially the Vale do São Francisco. All routes cross the São Francisco River between Pernambuco and Bahia, passing by several islands. The program includes visits to a winery, a fruit farm, the dam, and a few spots to go swimming.

Tours in the Caatinga

The best way to get to know the fauna and flora of the Caatinga is during an up close tour. The Caatinga Trail is a 330 yard (300-meter) path that runs within a 27 acre (11-hectare) area. This path was created to show visitors the diversity of the Caatinga’s flora and fauna and is an important environmental education initiative. Signs along the trail provide the scientific and popular names of each species, information about their ecological importance and their use as food or medicinal plants, as well as the need for sustainable use and conservation of this ecosystem.

Another tip is to visit the Fauna Museum, located on the Universidade Federal do Vale do São Francisco campus. Not only does this place offer ideal programming for children, but it also offers lectures for adults. Take some time to check out the permanent collection in the museum's exhibition wing and learn about the typical animals of the Caatinga.

Delicacies in Balneário das Pedrinhas

Fancy a delicious grilled fish in a quiet place? The best recommendation is Balneário das Pedrinhas, a fishing village located 20 miles (34 kilometers) from the center of Petrolina. Here you can taste tambaqui, dourado, tucunaré, tilápia, cari, and even surubim, while enjoying a beautiful view of Velho Chico. On the way to the fishing village, you will pass the Serrote do Urubu, a rock formation 1,300 feet (400 meters) tall, which is easy to reach with a good pair of tennis shoes. From there you can enjoy a beautiful view of the islands, plantations, rocks, and the town of Petrolina.

Carrancas and handicrafts from the Vale do São Francisco

If you like to discover new destinations through handicrafts, you should make two stops in Petrolina. The first is at the Ana das Carrancas Cultural Center, a memorial founded in 1995 that contains the work of the artisan Ana Leopoldina, who died in 2008. She was known as "Ana das Carrancas " for the production of zoomorphic carrancas , clay figures that are a mixture of animal and human and endowed with unique features. Also typical of the region are carrancas made of wood, which can be found in all sizes.
Another special place is the Oficina do Artesão Mestre Quincas. The center was named after Joaquim Correia Lima, also known as "Mestre Quincas", who was one of the most important artists of Petrolina. Founded in 1989, the center provides a space to exhibit the work of many artists from the region. There is also an area open to visitors where you can watch artists produce their handicrafts.

As you can see, there is much more to experience during a Brazil vacation in Bahia or Pernambuco than relaxing days on the beach. For wine lovers, a trip to the Vale do São Francisco is an opportunity to sample the region's tropical wines and explore the caatinga, an exclusively Brazilian biome!

Sources: www.cecomp.univasf.edu.br, www.vapordosaofrancisco.com, www.vivaosertao.com.br, www.wwf.org.br

Source: Aventura do Brasil